Just an old lens ... (Carl Zeiss Planar T 50mm f/1.7)

 

Today I would like to share my recent experience with an old lens of mine, which I bought as my first lens when I was 14 years old. To be honest it was the only one I could afford, when I was a teenager. Didn´t use it that often and was much more keen on my dad´s (free market) zooms. Tokina 80 - 200mm was my favorite, but maybe that was only because of the beautiful girls in the neighbourhood ... :-)

Boy was I wrong, it is such a nice lens! At f/1.7 it produced very nice bookeh. It was great fun to play with out-of-focus and I will show you some of the pictures later. The lens was mounted with a cheap adapter from eBay on a Canon EOS 40D. To fix it proper some glue and parts of a paper-clip have been used. There is still some minor wagging, but it works so far. The crop factor of my amateur camera makes it even more interesting, because my all time favorite is the Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f/1.4.

My only regret is that it's so much harder to use manual focus lenses on modern digital SLRs. If you don´t mind you will get excellent sharpness at center and borders as a bargain.

This is not a technical or comprehensiv review and therefore I will just share some of my photos.

 

 

 

 

 

Conclusion: a very nice lens for portrait & still life

Note: If there is anybody who knows a proper working adapter for that combo, please let me know.

ps: There are no portraits shown here, for privacy reasons.

... the L'Evolution Collection!

The L’Evolution collection was meant to open a new, younger, more active clientele. Accordingly, the watches are ‘louder’ than the rest. We haven’t seen much, but what caught our attention was the new Ref. 0222 Carrousel Saphir Volant Une Minute.



It comes in a tantalum/white gold case for CHF 242'000:




While the sapphire Carrousel is not new, this is very special: the sapphire sports a mystical nano-tech coating with mesmerising, mother-of-pearl like effect:



The entire magic of the dial is revealed if you look close...



... very close (note the microscopic pattern on the glass – right, that’s a ‘JB’!):



Another novelty is the Ref. 8850 Grande Date Automatique with a new brushed case, which emphasises the details of the case nicely:





Price is CHF 19'100.

Unfortunately, we could not take look at the Ref. 8822 Tourbillon Grande Date with Power Reserveon the Rotor (CHF 148'000):



Oli:
To me some strong/strange design features outshine the qualities of the collection. There are some really nice and interesting solutions shown, but does the final product fit to the brand, their history, the current product line …? To me evolution is the wrong word for it and I would call it a small revolution instead. At the moment it is neither fish nor flesh, from my point of view. If they really would like to push so called avant-garde technology together with fine art of horology, I would expect more. Their benchmark should be Renaud & Papi (AP and Richard Mille) or DeBethune. Funds shouldn´t be a big problem (Swatch-Group!), but I miss the full commitment to show something really cool …



Magnus:
I was and still am critical towards the L’Evolution collection and I am not convinced it’s a ‘Blancpain’. This notwithstanding, being a scientist I like the way Blancpain utilised novel technologies, with an obvious (appearance) and a hidden (pattern) effect. The sapphire Carrousel is a marvel and an overall very well done piece, now moved up to an entire new level!

 

... the Specialities Collection!

A  new Specialities watch this year is the ‘Lambo’-inspired Ref. 560STC Flyback Chronograph. It’s a new iteration of the relatively new series of watches. Limited to 285 pieces and available for CHF 18’000.







Note dial and rotor, can they be more appropriate for a watch paying homage to a car?



Oli:
A newly styled watch, with a well-known (and tiny) movement inside. Too big for my wrist but to me it looks better than some of its predecessors. At least one watch in the collection that explains/shows the strong commitment to car racing, somehow.



Magnus:
The ‘Specialities’ appears to be a kind of an ‘odd-bin’ for Blancpain, an assemblage of watches where the company does not really knows what to do with it.



I find the mix of octagonal and round subdials confusing, as they are not implemented with logical consistency (octagonal: hour counter, round: continuous seconds and minute counter?). Nevertheless, the new watch is the heretofore most appealing implementation of the Lamborghini theme. The new design strengthens the character of this collection in a most welcome way.

 

... What to make out of this? Here we offer our conclusion!

To be honest, as Blancpain connoisseurs we are a bit worried about the latest developments of the brand. We are still interested in what is coming as for both of us Blancpain represents an important milestone in our horological upbringing, and we have/had the pleasure of owning several of their watches. The length and intensity of this article testifies for our affection with the brand.

Looking at the novelties of the past years, we identified the following trends with Blancpain:

1. A rather uninspired introduction/mix of design elements took place across all collections, e.g. the widespread introduction of guilloched dials (isn’t that Breguet?), which have no compelling history with the brand.
2. The new movements, based on the landmark piece Cal. 13R0, were also introduced in all collections. While these are excellent constructions with a proven track record in terms of timekeeping and robustness, they do not come without consequences:
3. Their introduction in the Villeret line effectively means the demise of the ‘ultra-flat’ watches, which is (was?!) a core value of the collection.
4. The new movements show a techno-affine instead of artistry-enabled approach. While finishing is beautiful on the first view, it has been economised in terms of design complexity, multitude & variety of surfaces requiring finishing etc.
5. The various collections are no longer clearly differentiated. As outlined in this article, the former distinction in terms of robust/refined, aesthetic elements, complications, size is no longer followed.
6. There is no consistency and long-term follow-up in marketing efforts, partnerships etc.

The tragedy is that we cannot blame the individual watches, which are great offerings. It is the overall picture that is disturbing. For the observer it is increasingly difficult to decipher the current philosophy/strategy behind the brand. Instead, there seems to be a lot of trial and error approaches followed. It appears to us that particularly the Villeret line, the nucleus and core of the Blancpain brand, suffers most.

Blancpain was such a gem, a small brand with a clear philosophy that had all the ingredients of an admired collector’s brand. It has been watered down over the years tremendously so that we fear that is soon reaches the state of a ‘Jack of all trades’ brand. If we look at some competitors in Switzerland and Germany it is really saddening for us to realise this, having in mid what could have been accomplished.

On top of this comes the recent significant price increases, but that is another topic…

But we guess that as long as the sales figures are good, no one really cares. A pity and a big risk for the brand itself – in the long term!

We hopy you enjoyed this rather challenging and comprehensive report. We promise twice: (i) we will continue our series, and (ii) th next installment (Part III) will be more digestible!

Cheers so far,
Oliver & Magnus

 

... the Sports Collection (a new Aqualung!)!

Let’s start the Sports collection featuring one of the current most popular watches from Blancpain, the Fifty Fathoms. There is a new member in the family and most of you will be familiar with its name: the Tribute 2011 Aqualung.



Obviously it is a successor of the former Aqualungs, and since there will be no more watches from the Léman collection in the future (that collection is discontinued), it makes sense to show it in their Sport collection.



What is different to the current 45mm Fifty Fathoms (Ref. 5015-1130)? The hands, the numbers, the bezel, the matte finish of the case, the open case back, the rotor and the strap.






The limitation to 200 pieces. Well, the price is different as well ... even with the upcoming price increase…

The much-celebrated exhibition on vintage Fifty Fathoms watches (at the backmost right corner of the booth) contained some vintage Aqua Lungs, while we missed the novelty (as well as the current 45mm Fifty Fathoms altogether) in that showcase. Looks like there is strong history and nobody cares or understands...

Oli:
As you can see it looks very good on the wrist and even better in the metal. My biggest regret is that they didn’t case it in a slightly smaller one, which is a missed opportunity in my point of view.



Magnus:
With the Fifty Fathoms Blancpain has legitimate entrance into the hall of fame of diving watches. The manufacturer recognized its significance and introduced, in 2007, a new line that ticked all the right boxes: the gorgeous sapphire bezel, a contemporary size and the magnificent Cal. 1315 with its restrained, workmanlike finishing.

As a long time admirer (and three times almost owner) of an Aqualung (first the 38mm time only, then the 40mm Big Date) I am most thrilled with the appearance of the Ref. 5015 Aqualung. My only regret is the price tag of CHF 15’500 in steel with the new likable sailcloth strap. I’d dispense with the display back and the elaborate rotor (it’s a tool watch, for heaven’s sake!), and instead lower the price a (significant) bit.



Let’s face it: The ultimate legitimation for the modern 50 Fathoms would be its certification for any military, explorative or other physically demanding operation.

I am sure that such a certification would drive the watch world crazy. But I am also certain that this will not happen. Not because the 50 Fathoms would not stand such a test (I assume it would), but it would be much too expensive.

So what I would like to see is a 'budget' 50 Fathoms with a less elaborate bezel, a more basic case and less expensive finishing but built to withstand the elements as the current one - this does not really fit into Blancpain's haute horlogerie philosophie, doesn't it?

WAIT – there was once a watch called 'Bathyscaphe'...? We almost pray in unison: Hope, is there hope?

... the Le Brassus Collection (attention: adult!)!

Le Brassus is the name of blancpain's top tier collection and was treated with a bit of 'moving here and shaking there' type of activities. Essentially, the signature Carrousel and the new Minute Repeater with cathedral gongs are mixed together with different flavours as spices.

The Ref. 0232, a Carrousel Minute Repeater with Automaton for CHF 450’000…






… and the Ref. 0235, a Carrousel Minute Repeater for affordable CHF 385'000






Oli & Magnus:
What is the significance of this collection? Formerly, Le Brassus was the complicated line for the brand, but recently Blancpain introduced significant complications and combinations thereof also in the Villeret collection (see above), leaving us a bit clueless as to whether a more substantial 42mm case as almost the sole differentiating feature is enough.



I am convinced that the Ref. 235 could do better without the Carrousel hole... This year’s Le Brassus novelties are new combinations of existing complications, solid watchmaking but nothing groundbreaking and not really wearable. Certainly not for the classic markets. Nicely done, though, but is this enough?

... see next

The Hidden Gems at Basel 2011 – Oliver and Magnus sing a swan song on a collector's brand

Dear All:

This is a continuation of our previous post on Breitling (click here), and will focus on a brand for which we both have reserved a special place in our hearts: Blancpain.

Blancpain always was one of the most anticipated dates of our annual ‘must see’ lists. A brand with a clear philosophy and a set of collections to match. Each year, a different collection stood in the center, and most times a new complication, often bringing distinctive practical advantages for the owners, was presented. Think about the new persevering movements, the unique correctors under the lugs, or the magnificent GMT Alarm movement.

Furthermore, Blancpain presented itself as ‘collector’s brand’. Enthusiasts were always welcome at the booth, which resembles the ‘ferme’, as the Blancpain watchmakers affectionately call the atelier in Le Brassus. The bar on the second floor was a meeting point for connoisseurs, retailers and watchmakers alike, and it was easy to be drawn into enriching conversations.

Blancpain also was a pioneer of collectors’ events. Starting as intimate and informal rendezvous with CEO Marc A. Hayek, key watchmakers, aficionados and friends. Several of us fondly remember the early meetings, the local beer brewed in the Vallée de Joux, or Rochat’s foie gras…



Times have changed. Presentations are professionalised, read powerpoints, videos and choreographed speeches. Just like many top brands like to offer. Before collector’s receptions were cancelled altogether, the audience was more strongly selected for possible ‘impact’ in terms of publicity and sales. So friends went out, ‘opinion leaders’ in. And there went the personal and private atmosphere of the manufacturer, for us it turned into a more anonymous brand.

Events for the watch passionate are now replaced by Blancpain-Lambos and pit babes, even historic achievements had to make room for them…



(Blancpain also concluded a new partnership with National Geographic – can you spot that on the pic, or a-n-y-w-h-e-r-e else????)

We can’t blame Blancpain as sole culprit for the development. Instead we tend to assume that this is mostly a reaction to an ever-changing industry landscape. The competition woke up and organises such events as well. Battles for recognition have evolved recently, and we are sure that some event dates deliberately coincide.

Also at Swatch Group and Blancpain specifically circumstances have changed. Particularly with the much-lamented demise of Swatch founder Nicolas G. Hayek, affectionately called ‘The Senior’, tasks needed to be reassigned. As a consequence, Marc A. Hayek is now at the helm of Blancpain, Breguet, Jaquet-Droz, Frédéric Piguet (now Manufacture Blancpain) and the German dial maker Deutsche Zifferblatt Manufaktur GmbH. An immense responsibility!

The above explains to large extent why time devoted for end-consumer contact had to be reduced in favour of sales meetings (that’s the main objective of Baselworld anyway) etc. A pity for us devotees who are left in grief over the loss of a few special moments. But does this explain all?

The fact that none of the novelties have been shown in the showcases and only a few through Blancpain’s PR (even on the official press stick there are only a few of the novelties) is a telltale sign how the focus shifted. Is it because of some erotic watches were presented...? Most likely not, because those kind of watches are not new to Blancpain and have been a big success in the past.



Just for your information we even had severe difficulties to get a chance to see the novelties at all. We visited the booth on a Wednesday (second week!) where there was almost no visitor traffic, and rooms and collections were available – in principle that is.

It was apparent that only the will that was in the way…  and merely because someone (thank you, you know whom we are talking about ;-)) finally made the effort to show them to us we are now in a position to present them here - critically.

We'll post separate posts for each collection as answers to these opening remarks. We will also offer separate conclusions for each collection, and we made sure - to the extent possible - that both of us had wrist shots allowing for a comparison of a watch's appearance with different wrist dimensions.

Ok, now let’s have a look!

Blancpain Basel 2011 - the Villeret Collection!

The Villeret line received significant attention this year. The most prominent are the Ref. 6660 & 6661, called Demi Fuseau Horaire, as the successor of the 6260 – new movements, new dial and bigger case:



The movement offers an interesting (and very practical) refinement: Ironically, Marcus Hanke mentioned in his presentation of Patek novelties that “generations of watchmakers used the capital of Venezuela as reference for the time zone UTC -4. Until 2007, when president Chavez suddenly decided to relocate the whole nation by half an hour, between two time zones. For manufacturers of world time watches, this resulted in a problem, of course”.

Not so for Blancpain as both references allow for 30min differences between home and local time. The functions are entirely controlled by the crown, whereby a pusher in the crown axis switches the function between home time and local time. It acts on a column wheel, making the operation very smooth.

Ref. 6660 comes in steel with a white dial in a 40mm case. Its movement is based upon the Piguet 1150 with 4 days of power reserve (CHF 16’000).





The 6661, in contrast, offers 8 days autonomy and is based on the Cal. 13R8. The white gold case has 42mm, the dial is Grand Feu enamel, with a price to match: CHF 41’500. And alternative is the red gold version with opaline, guilloched dial for the same price.








The two watches have entirely different personalities, whereby we think that the smaller version has a more harmonious dial layout, the indications make better use of the available space; the larger suffers from the huge empty section on the bottom left.



There is also a version with incorrectly called a Half Hunter (Ref. 6665, CHF 27’900); it has a hinged case back. Unfortunately, we were not able to examine it.

Ref. 6685, the Monopusher Chronograph with Complete Calendar, shown here with some of the former members of the family (take a note of the new elegant crown compared to the older monopusher!)...



It’s essentially last year’s Fifty Fathoms Calendar Chronograph in a 40mm Villeret case in monopusher version, thus having the correctors under the lugs. It’s a bit thick for the Villeret line and boosts lots of details (CHF 19’900 in steel, CHF 30’900 in red gold):






Ref. 6615 Grande Decoration with the lovely caliber 15, which was used for Blancpain pocket watches in the past, by other manufacturers including Daniel Roth, Svend Andersen or Rolex, and currently in a wristwatch from Breguet (Ref. 5967; introduced last year; 41mm):





It’s a unique watch only available through the Blancpain Boutiques and individually adorned in Blancpain’s ateliers. Its price is CHF 53’000!

A pity that there was no time to take a pic!

Ref. 6670 is a new complication for Blancpain, an Annual Calendar GMT. It represents the classical approach to such complications, emphasisin on mechanically instead of theoretical (e.g. MIH watch, Ochs und Junior) complexity. It’s coupled with a GMT function and can be set back and forth even across a date change.




Once again we see a useful application of the correctors under the lugs:



The guilloched dial shows considerable detail. Price is CHF 37’500 in either white of red gold.



We can’t help but the overall layout strings some bells…



Blancpain is known for its Complete Calendar watches with Moonphase. Recently, a number of mouth-watering versions were presented:



The lovely Ref. 6639 Complete Calendar with Moon Phase sports a bigger case (40mm), has a new developed movement with 8 days power reserve, an absolutely gorgeous black Grand Feu enamel dial.





It comes limited to 88 pieces at a self-confident price of CHF 59'300.



Ref. 6638 Equation Marchante – compared to its predecessors, with some new design elements …







… and the technical improvement of all correctors being under the lugs…



…and even on the case side:




88 pieces in platinum (CHF 180'000) and 188 in red gold (CHF 160'000).

Lastly, a few design/dial updates:
Ref. 6651, Ultraflat Automatic with guilloched dial (CHF 18'800):





Ref. 6653, Retrograde Seconds with guilloched dial (CHF 20'500):




Two Ultraflat Handwound Watches with Power Reserve Indication were presented, the Ref. 6606 with a black guilloched dial and housing an old buddy, the 4-day movement Cal. 1106, now in a modified version with much nicer bridge layout (not anymore looking like an automatic movement with the rotor removed; CHF 18'600)…






… and the Ref. 6614 featuring a Grand Feu enamel dial and driven by the Cal. 13R1 with twice the autonomy and almost double the price (giving your more power reserve/CHF, is this now a bargain? Price is CHF 32'200):




Take a look at the sumptuous new Villeret crown:


The Cal. 13R1:



Oli & Magnus:
The Villeret is synonymous with the iconic Blancpain since the 1980s and was the foundation of ‘modern’ Blancpain’s success, and therefore we were much delighted to learn that Blancpain focused on this collection this year.

Re: Ref. 6615 Grande Decoration: As much as we like the Cal. 15 movement for its layout, we are not sure about the engraving, but that is a question of personal preferences. The watch itself shows lots of DNA from Blancpain, something we like a lot. Case - 45mm could be an issue and we would prefer 41mm, which is possible (Breguet 5967!):



The Ref. 6639 Complete Calender with Moon Phase with the adorable black enamel dial is one of our personal favourites from the current collection and it reminds on the Ref. 6263 Anniversary from 2003 and the Ref. 6263B from the Apotheosis Temporis set from 2005 – all of them in platinum.





The upgrade of Equation Marchante Ref. 6638 was successful, aesthetically and technically, but we are not sure whether the price ‘adjustment’ will turn out equally successful. The first version from 2004 is still our favourite one.





Likewise, the handwound Ref. 6614 looks adorable, and the new Annual Calendar Ref. 6670 continues Blancpain’s path of true innovation.

The remaining watches represent small (welcome) updates to existing offerings.



We are a bit at a loss what Blancpain would like to tell us with the Ref. 6685 Monopusher Chronograph with Complete Calendar, and the Ref. 6670 Demi Fuseau Horaire. The dials looks crowded and lack the elegant refinement Blancpain is known for. Can they be put in the Mickey Mouse corner of Blancpain (if such exists)?

... see next