Donnerstag, 2. Dezember 2010

A. Lange & Söhne: The Richard Lange family


According to Oscar Wilde: “My tastes are very simple – I like only the best.” Connoisseurs and perfectionists are never satisfied with anything less than the best.

Lange & Söhne is dedicated to a grand heritage. Observation watches are dedicated to highly precise time-keeping. Together high expectations have to be fulfilled. Connoisseurs and perfectionists have to be pleased. Quite a challenge!

Currently there are three members in the Richard Lange family.

  • RL (introduced in 2006; available in YG, RG and PT)
  • RL Referenzuhr (introduced in 2010; available in RG / 75 pieces and PT / 50 pieces )
  • RL Pour le Mérite (introduced in 2009; available in RG / 200 pieces and PT / 50 pieces -)


The case diameter of all three watches is 40.5mm, but the height is different (10.5mm, 11.2mm and 10.7mm).



  • RL - Calibre L041.2 with Lange hairspring and 199 parts
  • RL Referenzuhr - Calibre L033.1 without Lange hairspring and 276 parts
  • RL Pour le Mèrite - Calibre L044.1 with Lange hairspring and 279 parts (without the 636 parts of the chain)

The Richard Lange family is committed to the tradition of historical observation watches and marine chronometers from A. Lange & Söhne.

  

All three current family members share the same roots, the painstaking execution of all components, the finishing touches andRichard Lange was introduced first. However, from the name of the calibres you can tell that it was not the first one developed. The development of the RL Referenzuhr have the same case diameter. Apart of this, there are lots of differences - the complexity of the movements, the dials, the prices and so on. The “simple” (Calibre L033.1) already started in 2003, one year before its brothers, but it was the last one introduced. Did it take 7 years to develop the movement or did they hold it back for another reason? To be honest, I don´t know.


Richard Lange

Let me start with a quotation: “CEO Fabian Krone explains the objective with the Richard Lange was to on an industrial scale what Philippe Dufour does on an artisanal scale. Want proof of Lange´s Dufour like obsession with detail, each bridge that retains the gear train for the center seconds has cote de Genève that perfectly aligns with the pattern on the base plate, similar to perfectly matching lapels on a bespoke suit.” 

(Interviewer: Wei Koh; published at www.revo-online.com former horomundi.com)



It is not up to me to make the final judgement but they certainly did a great job. The simplest Richard Lange is far from just being simple, even though it is only a three hands watch. On the outside we have characteristics of observation watches from the past: simple & pure elegance, great readability, a very well made dial with Roman numerals and not to forget the seconds hand of blued steel. On the inside we have the in-house balance spring, a newly constructed patent-pending clamp (simplifies future adjustments), a balance wheel with eccentric poising weights and a stop seconds feature when the winding button is pulled out. The latter is needed for synchronization with a time signal. Between the bridge on top of the three-quarter plate and the three-quarter plate is an additional wheel train, which is necessary for an indirectly driven sweep-seconds hand. It ensures a smoother running of the long second hand on the dial. Nothing more, nothing less - pure class!

To me the simplest in the RL family, is an elegant observation watch for the wrist, even though it is not that small (at least for my wrist). In consideration of the superb rate accuracy, the excellent legibility and the painstakingly finished components, the Richard Lange is not only a marvel – it is worth the money asked (especially in gold).

Last but not least, let me share some pictures of my favourite version in platinum:



Competitors, from my point of view: FP Journe Chronometer Souveraine and Kari Voutilainen Observatory Chronometer


Richard Lange Referenzuhr



When it was unveiled in 2010, it was not love at the first sight. To me the dial seemed unbalanced and there was no sweep second hand. The style was somehow too technical for my taste and I was not immediately impressed by the Zero Restart function, to be honest. It took me a while until I could appreciate the technical details and it was the “look” of the movement which finally convinced me. It is still growing.



Once you get used to the asymmetric layout, it looks nice on the wrist, doesn´t it?



Out of the Richard Lange family it still is not my first choice. If I had really deep pockets I would go for the whole family, because of the general approach to the subject – which I like.

Competitors, from my point of view: -

 
 
Richard Lange Pour le Mèrite

Lange balance spring, fuse-and-chain transmission, three-part enamel dial, … - can it get any better?

It is a very exclusive precision instrument, with lots of room for romance. A feast for the eyes!


But (yes, there is a but), not everything on that watch is “perfect”: the price and the somehow technical look of the movement. I know both points are VERY subjective. Don´t get me wrong, the buyer gets a lot of gorgeous details (some mentioned already above) for the money. Unfortunately, most of the watch aficionados can´t afford it. Even when they safe up for a long time, it will be sold out.



When it was introduced, I was totally surprised because of the three-part enamel dial. When I spoke to people form A. Lange & Söhne about the two-part enamel dial of the Anniversary Langematik, they always told me about the pain for all people involved. Enamel dials on that level are a huge challenge for the supplier (no matter how much money you pay for), because of the very high waste rates. I was told they would never do a project like this, again. Well, someone changed his mind and they went even one step further: three parts instead of two. Was it driven by passion, craziness, enterprising, … - who knows.

Lucky us connoisseurs, we can “only” appreciate the result.



Pour le Mèrite – the legendary fuse-and-chain transmission is part of the movement. It keeps the driving torque constant across the entire power reserve period. I don´t know if it is the pinnacle of precision but it certainly is one of the most sophisticated solutions in the market.


The whole chain is 16 centimetre long. Can you imagine, only the chain has 636 parts and they are tiny – just so tiny.


Once more, let me share a picture of my favourite version in platinum:






… and three more pictures of the version in red gold …





Competitors, from my point of view: Laurent Ferrier Galet Tourbillon comes to my mind ...

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If interested in more (technical) details, I can recommend the A. Lange & Söhne catalogue 2010/2011, the ALS Annual Yearbook 2006, the official A. Lange & Söhne website and the Tribune des Arts A. Lange & Söhne magazine (2010; by Gabriel Tortella & Gisbert L. Brunner). Furthermore if you don´t already know them, I recommend the A. Lange & Söhne internet forums at Timezone, Watchprosite and Revolution, for more in-depth knowledge, pictures and people passionate about the topic. All of the sources have been used for my research about the RL family and credit for some of the information and pictures goes there as well.


If somebody asked me what I think is missing in the RL family:





Well, I could imagine a Richard Lange in WG, with black dial ;-)

Seriously, what I would really appreciate is if A. Lange & Söhne would attend Chronomètrie 2011. A competition for chronometers – fearless candour, sportsmanship & noblesse oblige, comes to my mind. Closing date: January 31, 2010!


 


Final conclusion:
                                              
The Richard Lange family is a strong part of the current A. Lange & Söhne collection and a very interesting one. All members of the RL family share a common mind set but for slightly different target groups:

  • RL – for the purist
  • RL Referenzuhr – for the techie 
  • RL Pour le Mérite – for the purist & techie (with deep pockets) 
  • All three – a watch collector with focus on the topic precision (and deep pockets)

The watches in the family are not for everybody. They are simple on the outside and “intellectual” pieces of Haute Horlogerie on the inside.

Let me close with five quotations from the A. Lange & Söhne  Annual Yearbook 2006:

  1. Tradition doesn´t preserve the ashes of days done by. Tradition passes on the fire
  2. The most essential requirement for the precision of a watch is the harmonious interplay of all its components
  3. The more complex time becomes, the easier it should be to handle
  4. There is no perfection of the whole without perfecting each part
  5. Beauty does not just lie in the eye of the beholder. It is always a matter of perspective, too
Final judgement has to be done by you – the connoisseur, the perfectionist, the potential customer, …

 

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